How to get past breaking waves without being pushed back to the beach. Half of surfing is the way out.
Easy: push through
When the whitewater is small, hold the rails, push your chest up and let the foam pass under you. Keep your body low and the nose pointing at the wave.
Turtle roll
Paddle at the wave, and a few metres before it reaches you grab the rails.
Roll the board over so it is upside down, with you underneath, holding it in front of your chest.
Hold on while the wave goes over. Keep your legs together.
Roll back when the wave has passed and keep paddling.
Duck dive
Paddle hard at the wave and push the nose down with your arms before the wave reaches you.
Push the tail down with your knee or foot as the nose goes under, so the board sinks flat.
Level out when you feel the wave passing over the top. Pull the nose up and kick forward.
Mistakes
Starting too late. Go under before the foam reaches you, not as it hits.
Letting go of the board. It will hit you or someone else.
Always going straight at the biggest wave. Look for a channel and wait for the lulls.
Drills
Practise turtle rolls in the whitewater, where nothing can hurt you.
Duck dives work best on a board with less volume. If yours floats too much, use the turtle roll.
A guide is not a coach. If you can, take a lesson or surf with someone better than you.