Where to sit, which waves to take, and which to let go. The skill that makes everyone around you think you surf better than you do.
Surfers who catch the best waves are not always the best paddlers: they are the ones who sit in the right place and know which wave to take.
Sit where the waves break. Line yourself up with a landmark on the beach, a building or a lifeguard tower, and a second one in the other direction. If you drift, you will notice.
Look for the peak. The highest point of the wave, where it starts to break. A wave from the peak gives you the longest ride.
Pick shape, not size. A medium wave with a clean shoulder is better than a big one that closes out.
Let the set pass. Count how many waves in a set, and take the second or third rather than the first, when the surfers inside are busy.
Be patient. Waiting for a good wave beats paddling for three bad ones.
Reading a wave before you take it
Look at the shoulder: a line that stands up ahead of the peak means the wave will go that way.
A wave that is breaking everywhere at once is a closeout. Let it go.
Look at where the other surfers are. If two are paddling the same wave, whoever is closest to the peak has it.
Drills
Sit in the water for ten minutes and just watch. Predict where each wave will break, and check yourself.
Choose a landmark before every session and note where you ended up.
A guide is not a coach. If you can, take a lesson or surf with someone better than you.