Surf words, in plain language

3 min read

Peak: the highest point of a wave where it starts to break; you take off here.
Shoulder: the part of the wave that has not broken yet, next to the peak.
Face: the front slope of the wave you ride on.
Lip: the top edge of the wave that falls forward.
Whitewater (foam): the broken part of a wave rushing to the beach.
Green wave: an unbroken wave. Catching green waves is the step after whitewater.
Set: a group of bigger waves that arrive together, with a lull after.
Lineup: where everyone waits for waves.
Take-off: paddling into a wave and standing up.
Closeout: a wave that breaks all at once, so there is nowhere to ride.
Barrel (tube): the hollow space inside a curling wave.
Channel: a deeper gap where waves do not break, used to paddle out.
Rip: a current flowing out through a channel.
Offshore / onshore: wind blowing from the land / from the sea.
Glassy: a smooth surface with no wind.
Period: time between two crests, in seconds. Longer is more powerful.
Groundswell / windswell: swell from a distant storm / from nearby wind.
Regular / goofy: left foot forward / right foot forward.
Frontside / backside: riding facing the wave / with your back to it.
Drop in: taking off on a wave someone else already has. The cardinal sin.
Leash: the cord that links your ankle to the board.
Wax: the grip you rub on the deck so your feet stay.